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Q:  What is the difference in your Hand Wash with 2-Bucket method and just running my car through a $5 car wash? And what exactly is the 2-Bucket method you use?

A:  Almost all of the "run-through" car washes use super high pressure sprayers with harsh chemicals, so it doesn’t touch your car. These chemicals will do harmful things (such as faded paint, oxidation, etc.) over time to your cars paint, trim, wheels, etc. The car washes where they actually touch your car with a wash mitt or cloth, the water and mitt/cloth they are using might be a few days or even a week old. Maybe it even just washed a car that just came back from the desert, mudding, etc., you never know. They don't take the time to change the water and mitt/cloth out for each new car that comes through. Some even use those shop mechanic towels, or regular old terry towels to dry your car. Those towels have very little softness or cushion to them and do nothing good for your finish, and will usually instill more scratches and swirl marks. Ask yourself, how do you think your car got the scratches and swirl marks in the first place?

Whenever your car gets washed, you should be able to control what you’re doing as far as shampoo, chemicals, wash mitts, drying towels, etc. I use only fresh premium car wash shampoo, soft and clean wash mitts, and clean, soft microfiber towels to dry your paint. I also use the two-bucket wash method, which is one bucket for the car shampoo and one bucket of water only, to rinse the wash mitt out in after each dirty panel. Both buckets have a Grit Guard insert in them, which traps dirt from the wash mitt in the bottom of the buckets, not allowing me to continue washing your vehicle with a contaminated wash mitt. This method ensures your paint does not become harmed by instilling new scratches and swirl marks, not to mention your car will be cleaned better and look much glossier than a “run through” car wash would do.

Q:  What is a clay bar, what does it do, and why use one?

A:  Clay bar technology enables you to safely remove above-surface bonded contaminants such as tar, tree sap, paint overspray, road contaminants, etc., without instilling any scratches or removing any paint. These contaminants bond to your paint very easily if they are not removed at least once a week, and it is actually these bonded contaminants that keep your paint from that “smooth as glass” feel that your car had when it was brand new. The clay bar removes the things that cloud and block your eyes from seeing the true color of the paint. It also enables your wax to last longer because wax won't adhere well to a contaminated finish. We highly recommend adding a clay bar treatment to any package that contains wax, if your vehicle is more than 6 months old.

Q:  I have a lot of scratches and swirl marks. If I just buy the Protection Package, will the wax get rid of them?

A:  A wax will NOT remove scratches or swirl marks, unless it is a cleaner wax, and even a cleaner wax will not remove the deep scratches or swirl marks that a dedicated compound or cleaner polish will. Some waxes might mask or cover the scratches and swirl marks so you can't see them, but that doesn't mean they are removed from the paint, so the scratches will reappear after the wax wears off. The wax package is however, a cheaper way to somewhat cover these scratches and swirl marks up, until the wax starts to wear off after a few months.

Q:  I have a really deep scratch all the way down to the metal. Can you get this out?

A:  No, once the scratch is down to the metal, there is no paint in that area. No one will be able to remove it. To remove a scratch you have to remove very little of the paint around it. However, with my skills and expertise, I can make these scratches that are down to the metal look much improved.

Q:  What is the difference between a polish and a wax?

A:  A good, professional polish is the most effective product for paint enhancement. It adds oils to the paint in order to make the paint look better. I use only the best, premium, oil rich polishes available. A lot of detailers say they polished your paint, but may have used a cheaper, less effective polish to cut costs… A wax is a product that enhances and protects this better looking paint and retains the look of it after a polish. A wax alone is better than not adding any protection, as it will protect and enhance what your paint does look like for an extended period of time.

Q:  Why should I upgrade to a synthetic sealant instead of a wax? Is there really that much of a difference?

A:  While the waxes I use are top of the line, premium waxes - and offer more paint gloss, depth, and protection than any other “average” wax out there, an exceptional Synthetic Sealant lasts longer in protection and durability, and adds just a little more depth and gloss to the paint’s finish.

Q:  My local car wash offers detailing at much lower prices than most professional detailing services such as yourself. Why and what is the difference?

A:  A lot of people actually ask this question. First of all, the term 'detailing' has been widely misused in the industry. A detail to the average “detailer” is just taking care of all the simple details that an average person would not do when maintaining their own automobile. A true professional detail consists of meticulous cleaning inside and out, as well as professional, swirl free machine polishing and protection of surfaces, just to name a couple of reasons. They do in an hour or so what usually takes me 3-5 hours at the absolute minimum. Depending on the extent of the detail, and the severity of the vehicle, I have spent as many as 20-25 hours on one vehicle. Many carwashes simply cover dirt with shiny, greasy, solvent-based dressings. This not only traps the dirt inside, but the solvents in many of these dressings actually damage the surfaces. Also, many inexperienced workers will run a hi-speed rotary buffer over your paint, causing damage and ugly swirls/holograms. Many times they will also wax your paint over deep imbedded dirt, causing even more damage. Not to mention they usually use the same dirty sponges, towels, and polishing pads that they have used all day, sometimes all week.

Q:  Why should I let you detail my car instead of taking it to my manufacturer's dealership? Do you do anything differently?

A:  After working at a high-end dealership for nearly two years earlier in my life, I am a true testament to this question. The work that you'll get out of the better detailers in the country is going to be ages above the dealership’s work. The majority of dealerships just want to get your car done and out of there as fast as possible, as they are constantly swamped with work and are mainly concerned with volume. Not all, but the majority. A great, professional detailer, with a proven background such as myself, will sometimes take days, if needed, to take your car to the best condition it can possibly be in. I have a passion for detailing, and I take pride in my work. So no matter how time-consuming it is, you can be assured that your vehicle will receive the best care and attention to detail available, and will look better than it ever has.


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